The racket is the one piece of equipment you hold on every single shot. Get it right and the game feels effortless; get it wrong and you'll fight your own gear all afternoon. The good news is that choosing well isn't complicated. It comes down to five things: head size, weight, balance, grip size, and how you string it. Here's how each one works, and how to match a racket to your level.
1. Head size: power versus precision
Head size is the area of the string bed, measured in square inches. A larger head (roughly 100 sq in and up) gives you more power and a bigger sweet spot, so off-center hits are more forgiving. A smaller head (around 95 sq in) gives you more control and a more connected feel, but asks for cleaner contact.
If you're still developing consistency, lean larger — the forgiveness is worth more than the control you'd gain from a smaller frame. Our Power Spin 100 sits at 100 sq in for exactly this reason, while the Control 95 trims the head down for players who already supply their own precision.
2. Weight: stability versus speed
Heavier rackets are more stable and plow through the ball with less effort once you get them moving; they also absorb shock better, which is easier on the arm over a long match. Lighter rackets are quicker to swing and easier to maneuver at the net, but they get pushed around by heavy incoming balls.
Beginners and players returning after a break are usually happiest with a lighter, more maneuverable frame. Stronger players who generate their own pace tend to prefer something heavier and more planted, like the Pro Tour 98. If you're unsure, start in the middle — you can always add a little weight later, but you can't easily remove it.
3. Balance: where the weight lives
Two rackets can weigh the same and still feel completely different depending on where that weight sits. A head-light racket carries more mass in the handle, so it feels nimble and is quick at the net — common in heavier player's frames that balance things out. A head-heavy racket puts mass toward the top, adding power to lighter frames so they still hit with authority.
As a rule, lighter rackets are built head-heavy to add punch, and heavier rackets are built head-light to stay maneuverable. You don't need to measure this — just notice whether a racket feels "whippy" and quick or "solid" and planted, and pick what suits your style.
4. Grip size: the detail people skip
A grip that's too small makes you squeeze harder, which tires the forearm and can lead to elbow pain. Too large and you lose the wrist snap that puts spin and pace on the ball. The classic check: hold the racket in a forehand grip, then slide the index finger of your other hand into the gap between your ring fingertip and your palm. It should just fit.
Adult rackets in our lineup run from 4 1/8 to 4 1/2. When you're between sizes, choose the smaller one — you can build a grip up with an overgrip, but you can't shrink it. For kids, skip grip sizing and go by length: our Junior Tennis Racket comes in 23", 25", and 26" to match the player's height.
5. String pattern and tension
String pattern is described as crosses by mains. An open pattern (more space between strings, like 16x19) grabs the ball for more spin and a softer feel. A denser pattern (like 18x20) lasts longer and offers more control with a flatter response.
Tension matters just as much as the string. Lower tension means more power and a softer, arm-friendly feel; higher tension means more control and a crisper response with less free power. If you're not sure, string in the middle of the racket's recommended range and adjust from there. Stiffer co-poly strings, like our Co-Poly Tennis String Set, are usually strung a few pounds lower than softer synthetics to keep the feel comfortable.
Putting it together by level
Beginner: a larger head and lighter, easy-swinging frame — the Power Spin 100 is a forgiving place to start. Don't overthink balance; just enjoy the bigger sweet spot.
Improving / intermediate: you're hitting cleaner and want more from the frame. The Pro Tour 98 at 98 sq in is the all-court middle ground — enough power to attack, enough control to place the ball. Advanced: if you supply your own pace and want precision above all, the Control 95 rewards clean contact and lets you dictate exactly where the ball goes.
Three mistakes to avoid
- Buying the most expensive racket "to be safe." Top frames are tuned for specific styles. A more forgiving racket often suits an improving player far better.
- Ignoring weight and balance. They define how a racket feels more than the paint job does. Sort these out before color or brand.
- Skipping the grip check. Even the perfect frame is miserable with the wrong grip size.
Still not sure? Email us about how and how often you play, and we'll point you to the right model — and we'll happily talk you out of a pricier frame if you don't need it.